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Tips
Here are some generic tips we've put together to help you with some common problems and questions !
All our tips are at your fingertips. You can pick from the categories or just scroll the list below. If you don't find what you're looking for it's definitely on our net links !!!!
GUTTERS DECKS CONCRETE DRYWALL
Cleaning
When possible, and when its safe, use a garden hose to rinse out your gutters. Its the mud and buildup that really grabs onto the leaves and keeps them from blowing out.
Try attaching a broom handle or other long stick to the end of your hose( if your gutter is at one story )
When protecting wooden gutters, every couple of years apply linseed oil to the inside. This will help protect the wood from absorbing water, and slow down the decay or the gutter.
Installing wooden or aluminum gutters requires that you pitch the gutter in the direction of the downspout. Usually 1/4" per 4 ft. is adequate. With one downspout, the pitch should be continuos. With two downspouts, pitch from the center toward each downspout. Any gutter over 20' or so should have two outlets, unless you don't mind the look of a very tilted gutter.
When installing pressure treated decking,
do not space the deck boards. Pressure treated wood is generally very wet when you
purchase it. The wood will naturally shrink to approx. an 1/8" or 1/4" gap.
Remember to always pre-drill anything within a couple of inches of the end of the board.
If your using the new age decking like Trex, which is wood and plastic mixed, space the
boards a minimum of 1/8", but no more than 1/4".
When cutting balusters for your railings with a chop saw, measure one and cut it. Check that it fits properly. Now get a couple of small pieces of 2x4. With your first baluster against the blade, slide the 2x4 against the opposite end(perpendicular to the baluster) and screw down the 2x4. You've just made a guide for all your balusters. This works just as well cutting an angle on both ends.
To install balusters quickly, cut a 2x4 the same length as your baluster. Hold the 2x4 and one baluster against your post. Screw the top of the baluster, plumb(with a level) and screw the bottom. Now hold the 2x4 against each new baluster, and without measuring each one you create a uniform 3 1/2" space. This can be modified to any spacing by ripping a piece of lumber to your ideal spacing.
When cutting stringers for your stairs.
The goal is to get a riser height (the back of the stair) of between 7 1/2" and
8". The tread (the part you stand on) is comfortable between 9 and 12 inches
depending on the space you have to work with. Measure the height from grade up to the
frame on the deck. If you grade is not very level, use a good 2x4 or straight
edge and level it with shims (from the edge of the deck going in the direction of the
stairs). As an example, if I measure from the bottom of the 2x4 and get 37 1/2". I
take that measurement and divide by 7.5 (the optimum stair ht.) In this case it works out
to exactly 5 steps, so on my framing square I want a 7.5" rise and a 10" tread.
Lets say your measurement is 88 3/4", if I divide by 7.5 I get 11.83. We want to
round it up or down. If I round up I get a rise of 7.39, and we really don't want to go
below a 7 1/2" rise. So we round down to 11. Divide your height by
11 and you get 8.068. That's your new riser height.
The big key to stringers is to add the thickness of one
piece of the decking to the height (grade to frame) when your figuring. When your all done
and your stringer is cut, cut that thickness off the very bottom(parallel to the pad).
With decking installed you'll now have similar size steps all the way up. Good Luck.
You'll need to secure your deck to the house. Using nails only doesn't cut it under the building code requirements. If your deck is at your door height or one step down, use a 3/8" galvanized lag bolt with a washer. Installing one in every other bay is more than enough. These lags will go into the framing for the floor joists( or rim joist ). If your deck is at another height ( other than the same as your interior floor) you need to find the studs in the wall. Mark the spot on the deck frame, pre-drill and install the lags. Once you find one, the rest should be 16" on center from the first, but double check anyway just to be sure.
While mixing your concrete add water in small increments until you get a feel as to the amount necessary. You want a good saturated mix, like an oatmeal consistency. Too much water will cause the concrete to dry with pockets and it is difficult to finish the top with a lot of standing water. If you end up with a lot of water on the top of a footing or small form. Cut a small notch down to the surface of the concrete in the form, to allow some runoff of the excess water.
Pouring when its very hot or cold. If it is below 28 degree's your concrete supplier can put additives into the mix to prevent the water from freezing. If your doing it yourself, cover the form with straw or hay to help insulate the concrete. Concrete dries chemically, so it creates it's own heat during curing. We just want to keep a little of that heat in while still allowing it to breathe. If the temperature is soaring and very dry, you want to cover ( shade ) the form with plywood or plastic(not directly on the concrete) to keep the concrete from drying out too soon. Keep in mind, the longer the concrete naturally cures, without the aide of the sun, the stronger the concrete is going to be.
When building a form for a pad or patio, most any wood will do. Remember to drive in stakes around the perimeter to solidify the form. Concrete is very heavy, a little extra work building a strong form will prevent the sides from blowing out. After pouring the wet concrete, tap the sides of the forms with a hammer. This will settle the concrete and eliminate some of the voids on the sides.
To get a nice finish on a pad or landing. Allow the concrete to set for a few hours(does not move at the touch) Take a small broom and brush lightly in the opposite direction of travel. JUST ONCE. Cover the whole pad with successive brush strokes. Then edge the border with a concrete edging tool, available at most any hardware store. Using a back and forth motion "Edge" the borders until the voids are gone and the concrete forms to the edging tool. Not only does it look nice but the raised brush strokes might keep your butt off the concrete when it gets icy.
To remove your form, pull away from the concrete, then up, to avoid breaking off the corners. This can be done within 18 hrs or so, but don't walk on it for a couple of days. Concrete requires 28 days to get to full strength in most conditions.
To cut your drywall simply score the paper lightly with your razor knife and a straight edge. Then holding both sides, tap the cut with your knee and snap the sheetrock. Score along the fold in the back and snap again. Presto your ready to hang.
When hanging drywall, always start tight to the ceiling (horizontally) and work your way down. Try to keep the factory edges together, it's going to make finishing the joints a lot easier. Remember four screws/nails in 4 ft. (along each stud/joist) for the walls and 5-6 in 4/ft. for the ceiling.